Travel Log: Arcosanti

After 5 days in Sedona, we make our way just outside of Phoenix to an experimental village called Arcosanti. Termed an Archology by its inventor architect Palo Soleri (a student of Frank Lloyd Wright).

I had first visited the place about 10 years ago when I drove from D.C. to Los Angeles and stumbled upon it. Fascinated by it, I always thought it would be a neat place to spend a day or two. So that’s what we’re doing.

The place is as I remember it, half like some fantastic sci-fi village from an outcast Star Wars set sketch, and half like a crumbling dream. Inhabited by a healthy mix of crunchy hippy types and young artists in training. The ceramic and bronze arts and crafts created here are definitely a few steps forward from the kitschy southwest Sedona crap. Abstract and anthropomorphic critters inhabit the bells, tiles, and pots all cast either on the premises of Arcosanti, or its sister Cosanti. This, and providing workshops and festivals, is how the village manages to sustain its upkeep and any additions (which seem to be few in the 10 years I’ve been gone).

We rented the Sky Suite. The largest room of 13 available for overnight stays. Outfitted with one bedroom with a full-size mattress and another with a single size mattress. Two platforms in the living room may also double as beds. The space was worn and could have used a substantial once over. I’m assuming lack of funds and conservation of water may have made for a less then pristine presentation. Regardless, the general layout and design is nice, with large windows and a porch overlooking the alien landscape. The room, we found out just before we left, is wired for internet access.

The night stayed in the room was trying. As night ascended, and the lights were turned on, bugs congregated around them like some sort of village event. Constantly having to swat ugly-buglies from our backs and feet made a casual night of reading a task. I went outside to gaze at a sky full of stars, including a few shooting ones and a gully of haze that my dad had pointed out as the Milky Way when I was young. I haven’t seen stars like that in years. The night was as quiet as the first time I went to Joshua tree (since, the silence has been invaded by increasing amounts of traffic at all hours), only interrupted by crickets, wind surges, and distant coyote cries.

In the morning we walked a short trail to an overlook that supplied a great view of the compound. A cat joined us at the beginning of the trail and guided us all the way up and back, making sure we weren’t accosted by any snakes. After , we had a light breakfast and then stocked up on a supply of ceramic tiles. Although the bells and pots were incredibly beautiful they were also quite expensive. Hopefully one day we’ll get back and buy a bell or two. If you have a chance, its really worth buying on the spot for the designs are all one of a kind, and although its possible to buy online, you’re not really able to pick the specific object you might want.

Arcosanti is definitely one of the more interesting man made discoveries I’ve found in Arizona and who knows how long it will be able to sustain itself. Palo continues to create architecture and bridges, one of which will be built along the Arizona canal in Scottsdale.

Check out more photos.